STARTING A NEW LAWN

1. GROUND PREPARATION

About 10-14 days before work starts, spray Roundup on any large areas of existing vegetation to be reseeded. Mow any dead material as low as possible. Make sure all large objects (rocks, sticks, etc.) are removed from the lawn area. If your ground is at desired grade (1" or smaller particles), proceed to step #2. If you still must loosen the soil surface, first broadcast-apply a starter fertilizer and work it into the soil in preparation for seeding. Refer to step #2 for suggested rates.

2. FERTILIZING

Use a good general-purpose starter fertilizer like 12-12-12. Broadcast the fertilizer at a rate of 1# of nitrogen per 1000 square feet (12-12-12 at this rate covers 6000 square feet per 50#. Bag). Granular fertilizers should be applied in at least two directions, at offsetting angles to provide uniform application. For extremely poor soils use 8-32-16 at a higher rate of application to build up soil fertility. A soil test taken 6" deep will give a starting point.

3. SEEDING

Broadcast this seed at a rate of 7 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Always apply seed in at least two directions at offsetting angles, to insure a good uniform application. Firming the seedbed helps prevent irregular depressions in the surface from footprints, wheel tracks, etc. Over seeding an existing yard at two -four lbs per thousand is recommended depending on your present turf plant population.

4. STRAWING

Find a source of clean weed-free wheat straw. Straw should be applied loosely over the top. If you are hand applying, make sure that you shake all the clumps completely loose. Remember, you want shade to keep the soil surface moist, but still to let it breathe.
A thick layer of straw creates a rotting environment for the germinating seeds. Straw also provides some degree of wind-chill protection if you are planting in early spring or late fall. For spring plantings, it keeps the soil cool longer, allowing more time for root development. Strawed areas germinate faster and more uniformly. The straw should be left in place and not removed. Eventually it will decompose and become unnoticeable. Straw is available at 624-6590 (Ken Gaultney). Crain Tree Farm stocks turf fertilizer and grass seed.

5. WATERING

When starting new seedlings, it is important to keep the seed environment moist. Water frequently when possible until germination begins. If you cannot provide water to the site, make sure straw is applied and kept in place. This will both maximize nature's moisture and slow evaporation. Once the grass is started, use deep cycled waterings less frequently. Deep watering means 3/4 - 1" of water per application. This will saturate the soil deeply. This type of watering stimulates new roots to "seek" the water, forcing roots down into the soil. Allow the soil surface to dry out between deep waterings. Even though the surface appears dry, the dampness below will continue to keep the roots moist. Excess moisture on the leaves and soil surface is an open invitation for possible disease.

6. BROADLEAF WEED CONTROL

Herbicides used to control weeds like dandelion, chickweed, etc., should not be applied to newly seeded lawns before the turf has reached 2-3" and has been mowed at least three times. Weeds that are actively growing are easiest to kill, because most broadleaf weed killers are absorbed through the foliage. Best results are achieved by using liquids sprayed on the leaf surfaces. Use hose-end sprayers, pump sprayers, etc. Before spraying, allow a couple of days of growth after mowing, to give the weeds a greater leaf area from which to absorb the weed killer. Allow a minimum of 12 hours without moisture to avoid possible wash-off from the mowing, to make sure the product has time to spread completely through the weed. Following these precautions will help you get better results. Broadleaf weed control may need to be repeated, since not all weeds germinate at one time. Before spraying, check the product label for weeds controlled and possible restrictions.

7. CRABGRASS AND ANNUAL GRASS CONTROL

Herbicide used to control annual grasses like crabgrass, foxtail, etc., should be applied preemergent (before the annual grass germinates). Many preemergent controls are in granular forms. They should be broadcast in at least two directions, at offsetting angles, to insure uniform application. Granular controls must be watered in before they can work. The granules disperse, forming a shallow layer of weed control at the soil surface. For best results, apply 7-14 days before weed germination begins. In your area that translates to late March - April 10. Timing may vary slightly from year to year. Spring application of slow release fertilizer with crabgrass preventer applied every year at the time the yellow forsythia flowers is the best to insure spring/summer turf performance in one easy step. A second "follow-up" application may be necessary in lawns where there has been a history of heavy weed competition, or during seasons with excess moisture late spring or summer, or in newly established lawns.

Remember not all weed seeds germinate at the same time. Most products are for use on "established" turf only. If the lawn is less than three mowings old, you will need to use a special "starter-type" preventer. Check the product label or consult your local turf specialist regarding your specific needs.